Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Traditionals Tuesday Old School

Just pics. You're looking at my 3lb Collins Legitimus Connecticut pattern axe, a Camillus Cigar Jack, and a Robeson Shuredge Swell-end Jack.
slip joint pocket knives vintage

robeson jack knife

pocket knife





Thursday, February 19, 2015

Kydex Projects


Making a nice kydex rig for myself is something long overdue but of course I'm like the plumber with leaky pipes or mechanic with a broken down car when it comes to doing things for myself - it just keeps getting put off. My brother was also in need of a new holster since putting a Streamlight TLR3 on his Taurus 24/7 and as always, I was needing a project. I will say that the light was a challenge. I had done it once before on a different gun with a different light, but essentially it was trial by fire. I think I pressed it four times. A couple of those attempts would have worked ok, but just weren't perfect. Finally, on the fourth attempt the stars aligned and it happened. I just didn't want it to look like every other light channel holster out there and I didn't want this huge open box surrounding the trigger guard either, especially when the TLR3 is so slim.
custom kydex mas gray coyote







Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Bad Grain Put to the Test


Just a quick post today. You've seen this axe before but the handle it was on just kept warping and warping until I started thinking maybe I should put a string on it and get some arrows. I decided to rehang it but with a little experimenting in mind. Another axe that I had purchased at a junk shop had this handle on it but it had what is typically thought of as "bad grain" so I set it aside and mostly forgot about it. Needing a project and figuring that more practice sculpting handles couldn't hurt, I went to work. The shape actually ended up being great, which is kind of a shame given the grain characteristics. What you'll notice on a curved handle with grain running perpendicular to the tool head is that the grain runs through (across) the handle, rather than continuously up and down the entire length. We call this run-out. I have no doubt that this handle is less likely to enjoy the longevity of one with grain oriented parallel to the tool head, but so far it's holding up fine to daily splitting chores.


fitting an axe handle
Here you can see the individual rings running off the the shoulder.

And here you see the grain running more or less perpendicular, or across the head.

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Axe Handle Thinning and Sculpting Wards Master Quality

While I wait impatiently for my good handles to arrive I'm not left with many axe projects to work on and that ruins my day. I got this 32 inch handle thinking I would need to put it on an axe for someone else and that ended up not happening. Meanwhile, my Craftsman axe with a handle I really like, has taken the place of my go-to axe for my day-to-day splitting chores and my old Wards just sits in a corner. The Wards was one of the first axes I rehung and I didn't do anything to the handle before putting the two together. It served us well but the feel of a good handle makes it hard to pick up the Wards with its poorly contoured stick and severely lacking swell. However, it's a great axe and I decided to replace the handle with something good, or at least a whole lot better. In the first picture you see a beginning, middle, and end shot of the new 32" stick. It came straight, with about 1-1/2" in the swell side-to-side, but wasn't great front-to-back. Overall, I felt there was sufficient material to get a good feel, so I went to work. I will say, while we're on the subject, that I feel it's better to have a narrow swell than a short swell and in this case, it's somewhat the opposite. When I say short, I mean front-to-back where the hook in the swell contacts your fingers. More often than not, this is where handles are missing material, and more and more I am finding that I'm not satisfied with anything but a rough handle seen in some recent posts. The "good handles" I referenced above, are those first pass handles I've been waiting and waiting on.

So on this project I documented the process as I went along and that brings up the next common problem with off the shelf handles - the tongue. The tongue is the portion of the handle that is fitted inside the axe and when it comes already too small, it's just another little thing in a list of little things that can add up to an axe head coming loose sooner than it should. The new 32" haft was no exception. Luckily it was only short toward the front of the eye and I was able to get a good tight fit everywhere else. It is actually apparent in the picture - you can see that the tongue is narrower than the handle in both the front and the back. I lowered the shoulder in an effort to get to the thicker area, but in the end there was still a small gap at the point of the eye. This isn't usually a big deal, but I fill in these gaps just for good measure and I believe that if there is room for the handle to move, over time it will move there.

I recently acquired a half round file and rasp for working the swell and that's where the process begins. I found that I need the tight radius of the rasp to get the swell shape similar to that of my vintage handles and it really makes short work of wood without all the dust of the belt sander. Once I had ripped down the basic shape with the rasp then I took it to the belt sander to thin the handle down over its length and reduce the shoulder to approximately the width of the axe head. The half round file is used to smooth out the swell and then I went over the surface with a couple pieces of broken glass to get it smooth.

To make this project interesting I tried something new. Many of us axe enthusiasts like the patina on the heads because it tells the tool's story and history, but what about the handle? It will earn its own patina over time but it really takes a long time too, and until then, you've got this vintage head, dark and dinged with use, on a bright white piece of fresh hickory. Actually, since it's such a common sight I think it's really not that odd looking, but that's not to say that a battle worn handle, slicked over with use and darkened with age isn't also attractive. I wanted to see if I could make the handle match the head. To me, patina comes from use, but we've all seen the dry, gray wood that is the result of neglect and that's not what I was looking for. Most wood becomes darker and richer in color naturally when it's cared for, and even more so when it absorbs oils and dirt from use. That is the appearance I wanted to duplicate. The first thing I am sure a handle gets in it is dirt. What I have noticed is that the grain lines are usually darkened and I read that vinegar was used to age wood. I think the problem with vinegar is it ages the wood and just makes it look old, no well used. But, I have tubs of it sitting around full of black nasty sludge that comes off the axe heads and I thought it might just be a good first step. My vinegar solution did darken the wood and the sludge made the grain turn black instantly so I felt like that worked great. I already knew that simply applying boiled linseed oil would darken the wood and bring out the natural color as it always does, but I wanted more. I had some leather dye sitting on the workbench, some kind of rusty tan color and decided that had aught to do the trick. I put a little on a rag and rubbed it in with BLO at the same time to thin the color down enough that I could make some places a little darker by applying more, and leave other areas lighter. I made a few scratches in the wood for fun and I am very pleased with the final result.


Friday, January 16, 2015

Tru-Test 3lb Double Bit Refurb

Tru-Test in the center as I found it.
One of very few times I have been able to land something good digging through junk shops, I went home with this Tru-Test double bit. I don't think it's all that old, but in great shape and pretty compact at just 3lbs. In my mind, based on the way old premium axes looked with intricate logo etchings and stamps, anyone who took pride in producing the tool, would take time to mark it. My logic is that if this axe isn't especially old, but from a time when they didn't feel it was necessary to mark it USA - because it was a given - then it follows that this was produced as a quality tool. On the other hand there is no guarantee because there are 100 year old axes stamped USA, and very well made axes with little to no markings on them. What I see however, is a crisp stamping which is a real logo, not just text, a neatly finished head, and deeply heat treated steel. To me, these are clues of quality. I'm not typically a double bit fan, but I like that this head is just a step above a cruiser in size, and with thin bits, should make a nice brush clearing tool where cutting is desired over chopping or splitting.

Likely the little M has meaning, but a very crisp stamp in any case.
Shots of recent projects and the Tru-Test along-side my Plumb Cruiser

I used a 30" handle to keep it a handy size.


hickory double bit felling axe
Here you can see the fitment on the underside.

rehang and old axe

It's always interesting, especially with double bits, to see what the wedge does.

The eye on this axe is particularly narrow, but has thick walls.