Thursday, August 28, 2014

Thrunite T10 Review

When I think of the perfect light to carry every day in my pocket, there is a clear formula that works for me and I'm reluctant to deviate from it. So when I see a light like the Thrunite T10, I am pretty excited to get one.

The pocket clip on the T10 is placed so that the light fits down in the pocket. I'm not looking for concealment, I just don't want the portion of the light protruding from the pocket to jab me when I sit or bend, and I don't want it wearing at my belt or pants. I have a Nitecore MT1A and the pocket clip is a good example of wrong. Bezel up makes no sense to me for one thing, but in the bezel down configuration so much light sticks out of the pocket that it wears at my pants and even my belt depending on how high a particular pair of pant's pockets are. Carrying hard objects against soft fabric every day is going to cause wear but what bothers me even more is getting a jab from my EDC tools when I sit down or bend. No such issues from the T10.

solarforce z2
Pocket wear happens.
Stainless switches on the T10.
Next, it has a tail switch. Multiple buttons and twisting and programming, it all just makes my brain hurt. All I want to do is take the light out of my pocket and turn it on, usually one handed. I have a feeling these other lights are technologically sophisticated and that has a certain appeal. I would bet the users are expecting a single light to do all things, or they just don't really use the light very often. I'm not suggesting modes aren't useful, in fact I think they are necessary, but I want to change modes with one hand, preferably the same way I turned the light on. The T10 has 3 modes, spaced the way I like them. The low is very low, the medium is a good combination of useful light and run time, and the high makes enough light for just about any day-to-day situations. It is a reverse clicky, and does have memory.

The T10 comes in aluminum, stainless and titanium with corresponding price points, starting at $30. With a compact form factor, the right features for its class and a few extra goodies like a diffuser, it's a very good value. From all indications, including some serious torture testing on youtube, Thrunite is making quality products. With that said, we had some issues. Firstly the customer service wasn't spectacular. I ordered both an aluminum and a stainless T10 but received a Thrunite Saber 2014 in the mail. This caused some head scratching, but I got in touch with them. They never did tell me why I got the Saber or indicate that they wanted it back, but my stainless was back ordered. I guess they didn't feel it was important to let me know that it was back ordered unless I asked. In the end it took something like 15 business days to get the entire order after switching to a cool white T10S that was in stock. Next we had the pocket clip on the aluminum version bend out of shape after hooking on something. I've only ever had a pocket clip get bent on a Gerber knife. I got in the car, and when I got out, the clip was mangled. I have no idea how. The Thrunite T10 clip is nice but does seem to be made from thin stock and doesn't have that spring steel feel to it. It was easy to put back into shape and it could have been a situation where any clip would have bent. Another crew member was testing it at the time and we don't know what exactly it caught on. Regardless, that T10 stopped working anyway. It would flicker and switch modes on its own, and fail to come on altogether at other times. Thrunite quickly replaced it, but wanted a video of the problem, which felt like some annoying hoop jumping. However, it was a relatively easy way to show them that it was jacked and they made it right.

budget flashlights edc
Left to right; T10, Z2, L10C, and L10.
Despite the problems, I feel comfortable recommending the T10. However, there are two functionally similar lights out there that arguably fall short only of the Thrunite's classy looks. The L3 Illumination L10C and Solarforce Z2 are both cheaper and do the same work, plus they both come in different colors. All three of these lights are relatively new, an indication of the popularity of the class and form factor in my opinion. There are other, more expensive options already out there, but we're finally seeing some affordable competition for a slim, 1xAA pocket light with a clip and tail switch. 1xAA lights are long enough to grip, but slim enough to vanish in your pocket and clamp in your teeth for hands free operation. The tail switch provides one hand operation and mode changes and the pocket clip keeps the light where you want it. Eneloops and other "pre-charged" batteries make it easy and affordable to gas up your torch, while alkaline AAs are about as readily available as anything you can think of.

The bottom line on the T10 is that it steps up the looks department for budget pocket lights and gives owners a few nice extras in the deal. The stainless steel T10S has a definite tank-like feel with a little extra weight while the aluminum version keeps the cost low. To complete the line, the titanium T10T provides high end materials without sending the price through the roof. For the CR123 fans, there is the T20 line. Thrunite certainly makes it look like they've been listening to consumers and have put together the right product and successfully adapted it for a full line of lights for a full range of consumers.

stainless steel flashlights, budget edc, every day carry lights
The T10 lights we tested. The black version is the least expensive aluminum version.

Just a nice shot of some good looking lights.

review, thrunite products, thrunite review
This is how they are packaged and you see the diffuser included there - a nice touch.

1xAA flashlights review edc
Here they are pictured with the Solarforce Z2. Same form factor, much less money.

No reverse polarity protection, but pretty neat and clean workmanship.

The Saber 2014 is a keychain light which comes with two body tubes enabling AA or CR123 batteries.

Monday, August 25, 2014

Cutting Down a Badly Damaged Axe

Much as I like the idea of saving old axes from an ill fated existence, there isn't much that can be done with one that's been mistreated to the point of being damaged. I think it's fair to avoid those abused choppers out there as a prudent measure of caution - a notion at the front of my mind when large pieces of sharpened steel moving with great force are involved.

Each of us assigns value to items in different ways and perhaps some things, despite a rough exterior or unpleasant history, may be worth a little more consideration if they are of greater perceived value to us. This Keen Kutter fit this description for me. It would require surgery, but botching the procedure was worth the risk when the axe, in received condition, couldn't be used. It was a well made tool in its day, unappreciated by owner, abused, then left for dead. In good condition it would have been too valuable to cut into pieces, but in present condition, unusable without cutting. Ironically, from an edged tool's perspective, every edge but the cutting edge had been used to accomplish some task, leaving damage on virtually every surface it shouldn't have been. By luck, or fate, I had recently contemplated creating a smaller axe by relieving it from a larger one, but up until this point, I simply didn't have the heart to put steel to steel.

Keen Kutter stamp.
I'm not knowledgeable in the art of steel, the science of metallurgy, but I know two things to be fact. One, I don't have a lot of patience for certain things, and two, I know power tools designed to save patience generate a lot of heat. This goes back to that part where botching the surgery was worth the risk. I knew I had to keep it cool, and I knew I'd cut corners if it took too long to get it cut down. My understanding of axe steel is that the majority of the tool is in an unhardened state, while the bit, the cutting edge, is the area to be particular about. With this in mind I soaked a couple of shop towels in cool water, wrapped the axe in them and clamped them into place as I cut. I have a testing system for heat, it's very sophisticated. There is warm, where you can touch it with your fingers and not get burned. There is hot, like the water that comes out of the hot water heater - it'll scald you. After that is piss-your-pants hot. If you touch it, expect a blister or worse. I figure the steel needs cooling when it gets to scalding water temperatures and it's a good job when it's not too hot to touch. If you touch it and it's so hot you just about piss your pants, you screwed up.

First cut made to the bottom.
I used a thin cut-off wheel made for steel on my 4.5 inch grinder. It cuts through steel, hardened or not, like butter. These things laugh in the face of pretty much anything, are cheap, and actually very durable. The whole unit, clamps, rags and axe could all be dunked in a bucket of water from time to time when I felt I was getting to the appropriate range on my special heat test.

Regardless of experience or knowledge, the proof as they say, is in the pudding. When I finish an axe, I like to split some wood with it, especially Hedge (Osage Orange), just to see if my hang is tight, but in this case, to see if the edge would roll. Cutting hedge is a little bit like cutting concrete, and short of whacking my hard work against the sidewalk, is a good test of the cutting edge. My chopped down Keen Kutter passed the test. I've been known to tackle hunks of wood with my axes that are best left to a maul or wedge, or chainsaw (let's be honest), but I don't suggest splitting wood with your axe if it's really reluctant to give way. Some people believe that mauls are for splitting wood, axes are for chopping wood, and they are strictly segregated races within the world of cutting implements. Of course that's nonsense. But there is a line. An axe is light and handy and I have a personal preference toward three pounders on 28 inch sticks. A general purpose profile axe will split like a dream with considerably less effort than a maul, which tends to maul not only wood, but also the user. By the same token, there's no sense in busting your handle over a hunk of stubborn timber.

The finished product with the rest of the family.
This little Keen Kutter is now 2lbs 6oz and with the haft, 3lbs 5oz. Its splitting limits are different but with the smaller size comes new uses and conveniences in processing kindling or simple brush clearing or even carving. It originally had an octagonal handle and I felt this was a good time to give one a try as I haven't before. House Handle makes octagonal handles and so I placed my order for one 28 inches long. After some trimming and touch up, it measures just a little over 26 inches finished. Sadly the Keen Kutter stamp fell victim to the mushroomed poll, but the USA stamp is intact.

Some very pronounced mushrooming to the poll here - both sides.
Serious damage toward the bottom or "heel".
It just keeps getting better and better. Damage to the eye.
24 hours in vinegar means very little elbow grease needed. The black bit indicates the hard steel where it was folded over the softer steel in the forging process.
The first cut is pictured earlier in the post, but here it is just about finished.
This mark was found on the underside of the poll.
Still made in the USA!
Some of the finish work. Still a dent in the eye but now minor.
The underside. I ended up taking a bit more material from the top and bottom but this is the more or less finished state.
It has a slightly up-swept appearance but nothing serious.
Handles that came in that same day.
Here she is in all her glory with the octagonal handle. You may be able to notice that I trimmed the swell down some.
My best fit to date.

A nice little roll of wood all the way around. I know it's tight.

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Black King Axe Project and Tool Handle Selection

What can I say, I enjoy working on old axes. I think someone referred to it as "rescuing" them and I really think that is the right word for the way I feel about doing this sort of work. Losing great things to nothing more than the passage of time just seems wrong. It's the same way I feel about old cars and no doubt the same way other people feel about whichever old things they enjoy rescuing. The mere fact that they can be rescued some decades later is a testament to their intrinsic value and quality. An old axe may have been seen as a tool in its time but that doesn't mean it wasn't much more. People lived by their tools in simpler years gone by and perhaps in different ways and by different tools, still do. Some derived income from an axe to feed, clothe and shelter themselves and their families, others may have directly used it to achieve those same results by harvesting and processing plants and animals themselves. It's fair to say the axe was the tool for its time, meaning that it existed because it was needed. When things are no longer needed, they aren't made. Computers and electronic appliances may be the tools of our time and many of them are very well made. Computers, I think, represent our era, and while some may be well made, they will cease to be useful in a relatively short period of time - some in just a few years, others even less. Computers reinvented the term obsolete. However, we found better ways to cut down trees, and we find better ways to process data today. A person can, and many do, go to work and derive the income needed to feed, clothe and shelter themselves and their families by using a computer.

So far as I know, no one has used a computer to directly process or harvest wood for shelter, or animals for food and clothing. A computer is part of an unsustainable system, and I expect that it always will be. There will be arguments, but the computer will always rely on another piece of unsustainable material or process to provide us with the essentials for life - no matter how sci-fi your imagination can get. In the Fifth Element, one of my all time favorite movies, Leeloo, the lovely red headed alien, was able to press a button on the microwave and produce a complete chicken dinner in a matter of seconds. That's impressive but it makes me think of another classic sci-fi quote from the Stallone Judge Dredd - "Eat recycled food. It's good for the environment, and OK for you". The axe and other hand tools are part of a sustainable system, directly connected to self-reliance, freedom and life. Each part of the system can be grown, or made by hand using human ingenuity. The iron needed for an axe is used so efficiently that its impact is infinitesimal compared to modern tools destined to live brief lives. Humans are tool users, and we'll always use the tools of our time, but certain tools are timeless. To live, to have the things we absolutely must have or perish, regardless of the time, the axe will remain constant while the computer will not.

In fifty years the computer I am writing this on most likely won't even turn on due to component or system failure, or incompatibility or all three, and whether it turns on or not it will be obsolete. Fifty year old axes, even those left to be reclaimed by nature, are fully capable of performing their intended function, and are often rescued for it. There is no component like plastic, or system like electricity or micro manufacturing required to sustain an axe and the only material with which it must be compatible is a living thing. The axe to me represents that connection between us and nature, a time of craftsmanship, pride and quality, and most importantly self reliance. Because the poll axe is an American creation and because most modern axe patterns are a variation of the American axe, it is a symbol of the founding of this country as well.



House Handles seem to commonly be lop sided like this and I am picky about the shape of the shoulder. Not just visually but also in feel since my hand spends a fair amount of time on this area. As it was, it was much too large for my hands.
After a vinegar bath you can clearly see the hardened bit. I'd like to see every axe be like my Snow & Nealley with more than 2 inches of bit, but this is acceptable.
The Black King markings.
More goofy shape, but I asked for a large swell in order to shape it to my liking.
The Black King is on the right with a Hedge wedge and a fitting I am proud of. I think it has an odd design myself. You will notice in the next picture that the bit is quite thick, yet you will also notice how much more wedge shaped the Snow & Nealley (on the left) is. One would expect a wider bit on an axe designed for splitting duties, but not the taper toward the poll. Maybe that taper has some benefit in splitting that I don't know about, but I honestly don't see much difference and the thick edge doesn't bite like a thinner edge does. It tends to want to bounce out of the cut on stubborn wood.
There is a good shot of the thick edge.
A shot of the shoulder after it was thinned down.
A heart sinking hairline crack that I didn't notice until it was done. I don't believe it will be a real issue, it's just not what you want to see after you spent 3 hours reworking the shape of a handle this much and fitting it to a new axe.
While I was at it, these two hammers got new life.
I am led to believe that the little guy on the right might be old and original because of the simple (non-step) metal wedges.
That is a U mark, I think. This was an impressive job fitting the handle whoever did it originally. The eye is tapered on the inside - larger at the top and bottom which means the handle is flared significantly in order to fill the eye. This was a challenge for me to say the least.
Bits and pieces and the new handles.
 You may have noticed that my new axe handle is dark, made entirely from heart wood. A good helping of boiled linseed oil took it from the light color pictured toward the top, to the final dark color. I did some research and it would appear that there is some mythology involved in handle selection. Your standard handle selection advice sounds something like this; heart wood is a no-no, and the grain must be perfectly straight, parallel to the tool. I happened across some documents from the National Forrest Service and other writings dating back to the 20s or 30s if I remember correctly, which seem to suggest that these requirements aren't really necessary. Trees are round and we're not cutting naturally grown, old trees like we might have in the 1800s, so perfect grain orientation is somewhat unrealistic by itself. I think that parallel grain orientation is requested not necessarily to provide theoretical strength, but as an easy way to avoid grain run out. If you can picture wood as thin layers stacked up, you want to avoid having those layers run at an angle across the handle, ending in the middle somewhere. That is where the handle is going to break. Grain which runs perpendicular to the tool, you may be able to imagine, needs to only be at a slight angle in order to result in bad run out. Of course this problem could happen in either orientation. There is a reason Hickory is the choice wood though. It's strong and straight grain is easy to come by.

So based on my research it looks to me like run out is a top priority and grain quality is another. Some stripes in the grain look speckled, or porous, others look smooth. I suppose the logic here is obvious. The porous wood is weaker and brittle, the smooth, tight wood is strong and flexible. In the image the lightest band is just a thin line which sort of dissolves into speckles until there are none leaving the darkest band. The area which is burned slightly shows it best. Where the speckles are tightly bunched they create a thin line. The area with less dense speckling or none at all, is much thicker. Much like grain run out, I think the chances are pretty good you'll land good grain quality more often than not when buying AA grade Hickory, and it's not worth stressing over the thickness of the smooth bands of wood in your handle. It is more important to avoid those which are obviously bad. I'm not going to ransack the handle isle for an extra millimeter of good grain, I'm just going to look at the end of the handle and check that the speckled bands are thinner and the smooth bands are the thicker bands. Hickory is good stuff, and wood will eventually break. I figure these are the realities of the handle situation. I split wood to heat my house, I don't harvest lumber for a living, and because I enjoy saving axes, I have a growing collection where I can rotate them often enough to put very little stress on any given one.

The same Forrest Service research detailed significant strength/break testing on Hickory heart wood and they concluded that it's perfectly suited for axe handle use.

I guess the moral of the story is, don't over think your handle. By the same token, if you want it I say go for that parallel grain if it's available - it looks great and shows some attention to detail. There is no argument against a nice handle, there is just evidence that losing sleep over less than perfect grain isn't warranted. If you find heartwood attractive, get it, and enjoy your axe.

Friday, August 8, 2014

Enzo Trapper Kydex Leather Hybrid Sheath Build

horizontal carry, kydex leather hybrid enzo trapper
Many fixed blade enthusiasts will be familiar with the work of Martin Swinkels and I fully admit that I sought to emulate his sheath designs when I set off on this project. Further credit is due to Ian Atkinson of Leodis Leather from youtube. He has two specific videos; Making a Bushcraft Sheath and Making a Leather/Kydex Sheath which give you step-by-step, complete, no questions left unanswered instructions for building a sheath and ending up with a high quality product. If you want to learn to make sheaths (or anything leather) Ian's youtube channel is a one stop shop. I've made a number of leather products in the past and made enough mistakes that I felt pretty confident about this project, but good guidance never hurts. The biggest issue with my sheath is that I was buying bellies for leather and they really aren't very good. Belly leather is inexpensive and useful for a few things, but if you want something nice, it would pay to just get some good leather. With that said, leather just isn't really my thing. There are a number of products you really should have on hand to make a quality product that will last, and the leather itself is expensive. Often you have to buy more than you want or need, so it's not exactly a project one might take on with the goal of saving some money on a single item. If you wanted to build yourself a holster/mag carrier/belt package then it is probably worth looking into, but like all projects or hobbies, it's the enjoyment of creating your own item that really matters.

For my particular project, the Enzo Trapper fixed Scandinavian blade, I felt that a more traditional material was needed to make the package complete. I used Hedge (Osage Orange) for the handle scales and I felt that leather would be the only way to go for the sheath. With that said, the benefits of Kydex are undeniable. It doesn't retain moisture and it provides retention that doesn't require any straps or snaps. By emulating Martin's designs, I could have modularity in case I wanted to add accessories or change from horizontal carry to vertical carry, and possibly bring those straps and snaps into play later if they became necessary for me. 

With my goals nailed down I went to work. I pressed the Kydex loosely on the theory that it would allow particles in the sheath to filter out around the blade. The deal with Kydex is that stuff gets into the sheath (or holster) so when you put the knife in, you get scratches. You will need to weigh the pros and cons for yourself when you design a sheath. For me, the benefits of Kydex outweigh this particular negative. I put three layers of tape on the blade and left about 1/8 inch of tape hanging over the cutting edge, trimming the tape in the same shape as the blade (effectively making the blade bigger so to speak). My theory was to create a gap at the edge so that it's not able to touch the Kydex at all. In the end, I can further theorize that creating a space inside the sheath may actually allow particles to fit and scratch the blade anyway. I can't say one way or the other with authority, but I can tell you that I have some very light scratches already. I honestly don't see how leather wouldn't have the same results and in fact leather is used for stropping presumably because of it's mildly abrasive nature. Debris is going to get trapped in a cavity like a sheath regardless of what material it is constructed of, and so in my mind, Kydex is the way to go for an insert. 

enzo trapper bushcraft sheath
Leather work is also time consuming. It needs to be wet to form and then it really needs to be dry to finish and dry time, even if you heat it, can be long. There were some areas like around the throat of the sheath where I didn't really have a solid plan. I just went into free form mode and I would probably do it differently next time. My eyelets weren't really the correct size which took some fiddling, but overall I am happy with the result. It is meant to be worn horizontally on the front, but can easily be worn "scout" style on the back. I'm not absolutely sure of the benefits to scout carry. When worn on the front I can sit and bend naturally, I can see the knife at all times, and I can access it easily with both hands in any orientation. Having the big strap also provides a platform for other accessories and mounting variations.

Lastly, I ended up using the Super Glue trick to finish the handle. Honestly, I prefer the appearance of the handle in the picture above where it is lying on a pile of wood chips. At that point it had a coat of boiled linseed oil and nothing else. However, I discovered a small crack after I had the handle nearly complete. I also knew that hunting season would mean blood for my knife so I decided that sealing up all the possible entry points for moisture was more important than looks. I painted on the Super Glue and used a buffing wheel to polish it. I can't foresee any moisture penetrating my handle now.



All of my sheath parts ready for assembly.

martin sheath style
When polished the Super Glue is very glassy. I could have spent more time sanding it and adding more layers for a really heavy protective finish, but even at this point, you can see how shiny it is. All the pores like around the Corby Bolts, the hairline cracks, and the end grain, are sealed up for life. Remarkably the glossy finish also increased the grip. I am expecting the opposite when it's wet however.

One additional comment I think should be made about Hedge for handle material. It is difficult or impossible to capture in pictures, though if you examine each image you might catch it, but it has an almost pearlescent effect in the light. The grain may not be the most exciting, but it really has some subtle interesting features. I am really pleased with the results. Thanks for reading!