Friday, January 16, 2015

Tru-Test 3lb Double Bit Refurb

Tru-Test in the center as I found it.
One of very few times I have been able to land something good digging through junk shops, I went home with this Tru-Test double bit. I don't think it's all that old, but in great shape and pretty compact at just 3lbs. In my mind, based on the way old premium axes looked with intricate logo etchings and stamps, anyone who took pride in producing the tool, would take time to mark it. My logic is that if this axe isn't especially old, but from a time when they didn't feel it was necessary to mark it USA - because it was a given - then it follows that this was produced as a quality tool. On the other hand there is no guarantee because there are 100 year old axes stamped USA, and very well made axes with little to no markings on them. What I see however, is a crisp stamping which is a real logo, not just text, a neatly finished head, and deeply heat treated steel. To me, these are clues of quality. I'm not typically a double bit fan, but I like that this head is just a step above a cruiser in size, and with thin bits, should make a nice brush clearing tool where cutting is desired over chopping or splitting.

Likely the little M has meaning, but a very crisp stamp in any case.
Shots of recent projects and the Tru-Test along-side my Plumb Cruiser

I used a 30" handle to keep it a handy size.


hickory double bit felling axe
Here you can see the fitment on the underside.

rehang and old axe

It's always interesting, especially with double bits, to see what the wedge does.

The eye on this axe is particularly narrow, but has thick walls.

Friday, January 9, 2015

Colt Gunstock Jack Knife Review

bone stag covers
Colt Gunstock Jack Knife
Not discouraged by the problems encountered on the Colt Buckshot Peanut in both design and finish, I placed my order for the Gunstock Jack instead and this one is a home run. These little knives are full of features including swedges, long pulls, and half stops. Everything seems to be in order with the Gunstock. The springs are strong and overall function is very positive. The blades come sharp and the nice square tangs butt neatly to the springs in the open position. In fact, there is no call for a lengthy review, this little pocket knife is well done and worth the $20 asking price any day of the week.

As with anything I can find a few things I would do differently if I were running the show. First would probably involve the covers, which by the way, are very well fit. I presume the tiny ridges, like lines on a topographical map, found on the covers are a result of the way they are made but I don't know and they could just as easily be some sort of aesthetic feature. The covers are bone, sculpted to look like stag antler or some facsimile thereof, and I have considered knocking the tiny ridges down and buffing the high spots in an effort to lighten them somewhat more like antler. But, in the end they are attractive as-is and have some really beautiful colors including a deep burgundy in the darkest places.

I don't dislike the Colt "C" in the one bolster, but I would probably leave it out. Along the same theme, I'm not in love with the circular shield they devised. I just think something traditional would be that final touch, an actual shield or decorative plaque perhaps.

colt pocket knives budget pocket knife
Centering is good, with the small blade off to one side but not rubbing.

colt bone stag budget slipjoint
The Jack is a somewhat larger knife but not too big.

cheap high value edc slip joint pocket knife
Less than perfectly blended and fit springs, hardly an issue though.

swedge spear point, half stops long pull
To get a clip point on board but still offer the large spade of a spear point main blade, the pen blade has a very fine tip which ends up being a very good design in that the small knife is great for delicate tasks. You will also note that the nail nick is correctly located on the Jack as opposed to the Peanut previously reviewed. 

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Plumb Double Bit Cruiser

The bright white cruiser handle as it came to me.
This post follows suit in some ways with my last two posts on the House Handle company and reshaping your handles. By now, after as many handles as I've ordered, HH is aware that I would rather get thick handles I can work on, and when I ordered this cruiser double bit, I got a chubby one for sure. It was also nice and straight with nice grain to boot, so it was ready to work on. I managed to score the little Plumb cruiser head on ebay for nothing when you consider how pricey some cruisers can get and it was already cleaned up for me. On my scales it came in at exactly 2-1/5 pounds and judging by the looks of it, it had hardly been used.

Here I had just begun thinning at the bottom.
Thinning a straight handle is pretty straight forward as you may be able to guess. As always I go to the shoulders first and thin them down to the width of the tool head, maybe even a touch less. I typically then dress up the swell and work in the flair. There wasn't much swell to this handle and I would have liked to have more to work with. Once that's done it's just a matter of stripping off wood until it's as thin as you like. I recently acquired a spoke shave to accompany my draw knife, which makes shaving off wood pretty easy and eliminates a lot of dust. I also got a half round wood rasp which is another good option, particularly for the curves of the swell.

axe refurbishing, rehanging an axe, hang an axe
Here is the finished product save for sharpening.

plumb cruiser, vintage axe
A good shot of the alignment.

cruiser axe size
For size comparison, a full sized 3-12lb with a 36 inch handle.

oak wedge, re-hang an axe, bushcraft
This axe hung really well with an oak wedge made from scratch.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Hanging Your First Axe; Let's Talk About Handles Part 2

In the first part I left off talking about the "first pass" handle from House Handle. When I first discovered the House Handle videos on youtube, I noticed that it would appear as though they remove the handle from the lathe while it is still rough, then finish them on a giant belt sander. It took awhile for the seed to sprout but I began to wonder if I could just get one of those right off the lathe. So, one day I sent an e-mail and asked. Sure enough, they were willing to sell me one. It's not a regular offering, so you may have to contact them yourself if you're interested in one. However, it was clear to me that the blank that they copy from, mounted in the lathe and seen in the video, is an old handle pattern, which means the result should be a correctly shaped handle. While I think that with a little work, you can have a pretty nice handle by simply ordering a regular offering from House, I was ready for something even better. I wrote the previous post to talk about getting the best you can. Obviously, you can just go hand make a handle from a board, and it will be exactly the handle you want it to be, but with this product a lot of the work is done and the template is clearly defined three dimensionally. The techniques I used to finish this handle are the same as those you would use to improve a regular finished product from any handle company. So let's get started.

This image, and the one at the top of the post, show the first pass handle as it came to me. It is shown with another axe just for size comparison purposes. It was plenty big enough to contain a very nice handle.
Step one was to quickly go over it with a draw knife just to take off most of the steps.
finishing and fitting an axe handle
This is after working it down on the belt sander. I use a 2x42 belt sander with 36 grit belts. What I notice from the vintage handle is that the swell has a strong concave curvature three dimensionally into the swell. I use the contact wheel to make sure that my curve stays concave. Often they come convex where the handle curves outwardly into the swell. This is a feature that I try to capture with my work. This could also be accomplished with a curved rasp or 4-way file.
Here it is pretty well smoothed and reduced to its final dimensions. I want a handle with curves and there is a simple way to bring them out in any handle - remove material only from the inside of the curves to get them down to final size. 

Just to illustrate how straight it was, and how much the swell flairs at the bottom. Here you can see how large the "tongue" is, the portion of the handle which is seated within the axe head. One of the first things I do when I get a handle is check the dimensions in this area. How low do I want the head to sit? Can I change the location of the shoulder to get the fit I want? I like to reduce the shoulders down right from the start to approximately the same width, or slightly narrower, than the widest part of the axe head. If you are splitting wood, this ensures that your handle is narrower than the head, making it difficult for the log to damage the handle. So I set the shoulders, then I define them and make sure the handle is even all around.
Here it is hung with a 3-1/4lb Collins Legitimus Connecticut pattern head. I like the head to really be seated down on the shoulder and you can clearly see here how I have "defined" the shoulder - there is a distinct line. This isn't necessary, but dresses up the finished product somewhat.
My custom oak wedge, made from very old rough cut stud material.
This depicts fitment of the head.

Here you can see the alignment of the head and haft.
And the final product.
This last image is a before and after of the House handle seen on the axe in the previous post. The top image shows it as it arrived to me and the bottom shows it roughly thinned and reshaped. This illustrates two of the main techniques I talked about above. First, I removed material from the insides of the curves to make the handle appear more curved - the green lines indicate the areas I'm talking about. Second, the swells are always opposite of what I like and the swell is actually convex creating a bulb effect. The little green arrow shows where there is almost a kink because the shaping is done on a slack belt sander with no concave surface such as a contact wheel. It just doesn't feel right. Because the swell had already been turned down too far, I had to just do the best I could. I did manage to get a nice smooth curve through the handle and into the swell. In the end it's a pretty good looking handle that feels good. I think this is representative of what you can expect with your handles. Good luck and thanks for reading!

Hanging Your First Axe; Let's Talk About Handles and House Handle

collins connecticut pattern
This comes up so often that I think it's time for a post on axe handles for those looking to restore, refurbish, rehang an axe for the first time, or second, or third. If you've taken the time to do any research at all, chances are you have heard of House Handle. They cater to axe enthusiasts. That I can tell, there are 4 to 6 places making handles and you can get most of them in big box stores, or through a retailer of some sort, but none of them will hand pick you a stick. None of the manufacturers ship to individual customers in house (Baker might). Except House. Combine this fact, with the availability of 28, 30 and 32 inch curved handles for full sized single bit axes, and House Handle is the only game in town. These are the reasons for ordering from them, not necessarily the reasons most people think of. But, before I go any further, I feel the number one topic that needs to be covered is expectations.

Grain runs fully across the handle creating weakness.
Why expectations? Well you have to ask yourself what you want to accomplish with your axe. If you've been reading forum threads or watching how-to videos, then the aspect that you probably hear constantly repeated is what you should look for in a handle. Ignoring all those things, if you want a 30 inch handle for your axe you aren't going to find one in a hardware store. If you do, you are lucky and that handle is probably from House - congrats, you get to see your handle before you buy it. If that isn't your scenario then you are going to order one. So with all the talk of what to look for in a handle, you have been unwittingly given false expectations. Why? Because that handle simply doesn't exist. If you don't particularly care about the handle, then you will be perfectly satisfied with what is available and let me tell you, you will have a perfectly serviceable axe, regardless of the "rule" violations that handle may commit in the eyes of certain experts. If you've wrapped your hands around a handle from 50 or 100 years ago and you want to get something like that, then you should accept, before you place your order, that you will not get a duplicate of that handle, no matter how much you pay for it. [Editor's note: I am inserting this exception for the next few weeks when I have my hands on an less known handle maker's product in hopes that I can be proven wrong.] Why will that handle not be perfect? It's simple in my eyes. Wooden handle tools can be described as a dying industry, and when compared to the decades past when hand tools where the only tools, it is all but deceased. Couple that with the American workforce costs, where a person can't possibly charge a fair price for a product with the amount of handwork that went into tool handles 100 years ago, and still pay his employees a living wage. I doubt they can even afford the lathe time, because those old lathes aren't fast - see them in action here. The bottom line is, expect to do some work to your handle when it arrives. In fact, there might even be some imperfections. It's not that I'm saying this is how things should be, I'm just saying, here is what you can expect. Handles might have some slight bend, less than perfect grain orientation, or lack some of the other features that supposedly constitute a perfect handle.

So that covers expectations, now here is how I operate, and how you can get the best available. Again, most of us use House Handle because they will hand pick your handle, and they offer 4 lengths of curved handles for full size axe heads. Why is that second part so important? Well it isn't necessarily, however, shorter handles were very common in the yesteryears of axes and for good reason. Portability is an important factor, but for a lot of people a shorter handle just works better. The "boy's axe" handle is made to fit an axe with a smaller eye so for the most part it isn't a good option unless of course you are hanging a boy's axe. If all you need is the standard 36 inch handle, there are some good options. Baker Tools makes nice handles, but I have contacted them directly and they do not make any other length. Their handles are available in Menard's stores. For me, the only important factors to an axe handle are that the grain runs more or less parallel with the tool head, and that there is as little run-out as possible. I don't aesthetically like the look of heart and sap wood mix, and I'd prefer the handle be straight. And you can ask for all of these things when you order. You must request to have your handle hand picked in a comments box during checkout. If you only order a single handle, and request the add-ons, your handle will be about $15.00 shipped.

The last topic I wanted to cover is the Gransfors, Best Made, Base Camp X, Council Tool Velvicut, etc. handles on higher priced current production axes. I have a couple Gransfors but never touched a Best Made or the others. If you buy a truly handmade or custom axe, expect good things. However, these current production axes are not the standard by which to judge other handles in my opinion. Gransfors and the other Swedish brands are excellent, but they are not turning handles the way they would have been in America during the height of the axe. They actually have very little swell, which is the enlarged portion at the bottom of the handle. It is often referred to as a fawns foot or scroll knob. These other American companies are sourcing their handles more than likely, the same way you and I are - from some handle maker - and you can see those same products hanging in hardware stores. Part of the point I'm making is, there isn't much out there that can be called the best and if they are, I would consider that an uninformed opinion. I think there might be a little mysticism surrounding Gransfors handles and I stumbled upon a video which shows a modern machine making eerily similar handles (clearly in a different country). The shape is somewhat different, but note the unique marks left by a plainer style blade, the consistency this machine is capable of, and the sort of round organic cross section of the handles. Today, a machine that can produce 4 identical, and virtually complete handles in less than 2 minutes would be ideal. 

Here are what I consider to be the best videos available for hanging an axe. Everything you need to know can be learned from them, and you can pick up some very important, often overlooked, tips and tricks if you pay attention to the details.
An Axe to Grind is one of the go-to videos. There are a few things I don't like, but if you watch only one video, this will get you going just fine. 
With an Axe and Knife is great because it shows a hand carved axe handle made by someone who lived by his tools. You have to watch carefully but there are some great tricks. For instance, he doesn't cut the handle down until he is finished hanging - it makes popping the head off for fitting much easier.
Bringing Back an Axe shows good technique for driving the wedge and a couple trouble shooting tips.
BushcraftUSA Bushclass seems to be broken for me, but it's very good and complete.
Pioneer Axe is for understanding your axe, how it was made, and a very brief, but interesting piece at the very end showing them handling their axes - it's much less scientific than it's made out to be sometimes ... by people like me. :)

Now, to make this post extra epic, I wanted to throw in my 2 cents on working your handle. Often when your handle arrives it will be a little too big in most dimensions. This is a good thing. If it's not, well I'm sorry, that does happen and I have actually asked for over-sized handles in the past. Once you know a few dimensions you can get a feel for just how big the handle is, even if it may not seem to be. Keep in mind that there were many, many patterns for handles and lots of folks made their own handles to their own liking. A handle, in my opinion, is all about personal preference. This is why you will notice that I refer to the "rules of axe handles" in quotation marks, and use words like "supposedly" when I talk about them. Sure, there are features that may make one piece of wood stronger than another, that's fine. However, there is no overwhelmingly compelling evidence that one shape - straight, curved, or really curved - is better than another. I do believe that one shape might be more useful for certain types of tasks, though again, not overwhelmingly. And finally, no one can tell you that what you like, just because you like it, is wrong. So when I throw out these dimensions, they shouldn't be considered anything more than guidelines.

In the following image, I have redrawn the diagram apparently used by the Pennsylvania Railroad System to spec handles. They were rail workers - just a guess - so it's safe to assume they may have had special uses for their axes.
Next up are some images of various handles and some dimensions for reference. The dark, 36 inch handle is old, I believe it may be from the early to mid 1900s and is probably a fair representation of the handles found on typical axes of the time.
At the top is my vintage handle, then a cruiser double bit from House, an unmarked head with a House Handle that I did a lot of work to, and finally a Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe. Note how thick the new cruiser handle is. You may also be able to see how shapely and sculpted the swell of the vintage handle is.

Measurements for reference. On the Gransfors, though it is a small axe, the swell isn't much wider than the main portion of the rest of the handle.

Here are the other two. I left as much swell as existed on my handle on the left. Where the vintage handle I would say is fairly slim through the swell for its time. Both are still sufficient and feel great in hand, but I just like a large swell.


This best illustrates the swell. I didn't quite develop the flair in mine (center) when compared to the vintage, and you can see the Gransfors is gentle and only slightly wider than the rest of the handle.

So the width of the vintage handle is roughly 7/8ths - just under, which will likely seem pretty slim compared to a handle purchased today.
This image, and these axes belong to a BushcraftUSA forum member, but in my eyes, these handles are the best ever made. They have to be very old and this was an amazing pair to find. Note the size of the swell, and the extreme curve in the lower example. This perfectly illustrates the variety of handle styles that existed and short handles on full size axes.
Hopefully this gives new folks some idea of how to get a great feel from your handles and what to expect when purchasing a stick today. My original intention for this post was to show how I have gotten as close to perfection, so far, as I can. However, this post is huge, so I will write a second part covering my experience with a "first pass handle" from House Handle.